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Daisen was to be the last 百名山 of year 2009. (hyakumeizan - one hundred of Japan's most famous mountains based on a combination of grace, history and individuality selected by Japanese mountaineer Kyuuya Fukada) With a long Silver Week Holiday, Sayo and I agreed that climbing a mountain would be the best way to pass the time. Having decided about a month previous, we did the necessary homework: researching the trail heads, transportation and costs, weather, etc. However "the best laid plans of mice and men often go astray". A last glance of the weather report on departure's eve led us to believe rain would be imminent. If this was the case we would be forced to summit on the first day, and that the second day would be wet and miserable. With the ability to only hope for the best we went to sleep awaiting a 5am alarm.
Monday, September 21, 2009
We departed from Tennoji Station and arrived at OCAT just in time to grab a wholesome McD's Sausage Egg McMuffin Set and Nikkei Shinbun before jumping on our scheduled 7:20am bus. What wasn't scheduled, however was the holiday traffic. Instead of arriving at 10:50am we would now be an extra hour and a few minutes later. This didn't bode well as I hoped to start early, get the majority of the hiking in and hit the summit before the aforementioned rain sweeped in. However, as they say in Japanese, 仕方がない (shikataganai - can't be helped), and instead of taking an Y800 bus from the station to the bottom of the mountain, we were forced to take a taxi costing us an additional Y4000 (Thanks to Sayo's ability to make a deal, she bargained the taxi driver down from Y5000). Arriving at Daisen Jyohou Center we started our ascent.
Although it felt as if one were walking on a stairmaster set to the most difficult setting, progress was quick. With 20% determination and 80% fear of rain we made it to the peak in about 3 hours. At 4:30pm we were at the top and it was beautiful and clear. These are the moments when I appreciate how wrong weather reports can be at times. After soaking in the spectacular scenery we headed to our resting place for the evening. The 小屋 (koya - small cabin) was a two-story, wooden building powered by solar energy. The toilets although filthy, were flush toilets, something rarely encountered on the top of a mountain. Best of all, there was someone running the place, which for me meant beer. This little pleasure was not to come cheap though. One can of 発泡酒 (happoshu - cheap, low malt beer) that usually costs Y150 in the city was suddenly Y800. Yet, it was a price I was willing to pay. Enjoying the beer, Indian Marsala curry and rice, we both quickly found ourselves tired and made our way to bed.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
It was probably about 5:30am when we awoke. Having a light breakfast consisting of ramen, bread and coffee, we then packed up our things and prepared for our descent. It had rained hard during the evening and a layer of clouds remained, encircling the peak. Although it wasn't raining, it was still a little chilly and damp. The climb down was even quicker than the way up, taking us only about two hours. Along the way we encountered hikers hoping to make the up and down march in time to make it home for dinner. Because it was cloudy there wasn't much to see but it made for a nice crisp and cool descent. Upon reaching the bottom, we made our way to the temple and after taking a few pictures we found ourselves having a nice glass of Asahi. All in all, a nice hike.
Daisen is a tall mountain, 1729m, with basically one peak. It is very easy to make this a day hike and one will feel a sense of accomplishment upon reaching the top. However there wasn't much diversity during the hike and there are many people also making this trek, so if you're looking for something a little more exotic and quiet this would not be a first choice. That being said, I wouldn't mind going back and checking out a little side course called "Utopia". Daisen makes the fourth 百名山, only 96 more...
Like all great stories there must be conflict. And as with this story there is no shortage of that. I'm sure by now some of you have seen images of the pain and have heard inklings of the suffering. These are all merely just scratches upon the deeper agony that was Hakusan.
It started out well enough. The expressway was clear and the moon was out as we left Osaka towards Ishikawa. After a few stops we pulled in to Ishikawa and started our aｓcent of Hakusan in our little Nissan Note. As we climbed higher we encountered a lingering fog which was dense at times and at others, lifted to reveal a sharp edge of a road which, if unskillfully maneuvered, would lead to a cold, quick death. Thanks to Juliens' reliable driving we made it to the top without a hitch. As we settled in for the night, all one could do was imagine the glory of reaching the top of this famous mountain.
Although I awoke at 4am, everyone else did not seem to feel the same urgency and thusly arose at about 7:30am. After packing everything away and having a light meal we started on what we believed would be a three day sojourn. Our first night on the mountain was planned to be the most difficult as there would be no 小屋 (koya - a small cabin) to provide some insurance against the possibilities of bad weather. However the weather report mentioned only passing rain and the tents we had brought should have been enough.
The seven hour hike was nice enough that day. It was a bright day but with just enough clouds to block out the dreaded August sun. We made a leisurely time of it. Stopped when we wanted, had a long lunch, no need to rush cause we had more than a fair amount of time to reach our destination.
It was exactly 4:30pm when we reached the designated location. Ideally it wasn't the best place to pitch a tent. We were near the top of a peak, ｻｻ (sasa - bamboo grass) everywhere and no real protection from the elements. Also the wildlife was starting to get a little too familiar. By wildlife I mean insects. All kinds, ants, bees, flies, mosquitoes. And by familiar I mean swarming.
After making the necessary sleeping preparations we all started in on the food. Unfortunately I had slightly underpacked on the food department and was left to depend on the kindness of my hiking mates. The mosquitoes at this point were more than anyone could handle so we all settled in for an early night.
Falling asleep quicker than I could have imagined, I was awakened just as promptly by the sound of rain falling upon the tent and Makoa's voice saying, "Scott, I think there's a puddle forming under us. You should check it out." After assuring myself that things wouldn't be so bad I settled back in only to be awakened again by Makoa. "You should really check to see if your sleeping bag is getting wet", he said. It was 12:30am. I looked over at Makoa. He was crouching holding his knees in his arms. He had already folded up his sleeping bag to protect it against any further wetness. I did as he said and felt under my sleeping bag. Amazingly the top of my sleeping bag was dry but under it was a massive puddle of water and it was only getting bigger. Like the captain of a sinking ship, I decided that maybe it was time to abandon it. Yelling, above the the thrashing rain, we asked our hiking mates for sanctuary in their dry tent. "Julien. Josh. Hey, we are abandoning ship. We're coming over ok?", I said. It was more than a question, more like a request, however there was no reply. Finally I said, "Hey, we cant stay in this tent anymore we're coming over." All I got was, "Ok, wait, hold on a minute..." as a reply. What could they have possibly been doing to make us wait in these circumstances, I wondered. Anyway, we waited our allotted minute and headed over.
It was a long night. Four guys, bent and twisted into a tent made for a maximum of two. Daylight couldn't come quick enough.
Our goal to reach the peak would not come to fruition this time. Due to the weather we decided to turn back. It hasn't been the first time this mountain has discouraged a mountaineer from the summit and it would not be the last. However, this isn't to say that this summit will not be conquered. It is only time that separates that vision from reality. Like all great stories there must be conflict. However, there also must be a resolution to that conflict. I am anxiously waiting for the chance.
This entry marks the beginning of what I hope will be a long and fruitful experience of sharing my thoughts and views with you. I create this space with only the desire of allowing you to view the world as I see it, picture by picture and written page by written page. Please take your time to enjoy these small pleasures as I will also in sharing them.
